Monday, February 8, 2010

Couture

Couture in general was kind of dissapointing this season but some collections were good, and some were disasters.

Dior



This collection was just bad. The color scheme is derivative of a prom dress catalogue and those gowns were all just so heavy, they felt like a chonga quinces or something. The purple skirt on Vlada is nice and some of the equestrian stuff will probably work in editorials. Overall, i feel like John Galliano's been using the same inspirations for too long and the same setting and same tranny make up. It made for a very boring, uninspired and not particularly aesthetically pleasing collection. It all feels like costumes.
John Paul Gautier
I loved this collection. The weaving techniques are beautifula and the colors are vibrant. I love the styling and the inspiration(mexico) was interpreted so nicely. It's rather literal but it feels young and fresh. This really felt like couture, it was theatrical and a fantasy. It does kind of feel like the same old Gautier collection but he's such a master with couture that it's not a problem. The palm tree leave effects are amazing and i'm curious as to what the material is.
Valentino

Complete disaster. I never liked valentino when it was all about "elegant, refined clothes for the confident women" or whatever with all the red and such, but it was always done well. This feels like a mixture of rodarte, balenciaga, and versace as seen by lindsay lohan and executed with cheap looking fabrics. This doesn't look like couture in the slightest, much less valentino. It was incredibly tacky and amateur.


Givenchy was good but nowhere near as good as lat season. The feather work is beautiful and the colors are perfect, especially that dress on natalia. I loved the jumpsuits despite my vitriolic hatred of jumpsuits. I hated the styling.
Chanel

Chanel might have been my favorite this season. The color pallete was like a crazy space easter egg with all the saccharine pastels and silver lurex and i loved the styling. The collection was futuristic, feminine and perfectly chanel without looking the slightest bit costumey. The techniques employed throughout are perfect and i love the seamless dresses, especially the yellow shift. The jackets and coats were cute perfectly and all the proportions are so elegant. Karl Lagerfeld might not necessarily be my favorite designer but he does know how to carry out Chanel in an innovative light. Everything had so much detail and at first glance, it all seems simple. It's the perfect example of practical couture.