Well, fashion week again! I'm not sure about how i feel about the collections this season, so few were actually good so i'll only write about those but Margiela almost made me cry. It wasn't even cheeky in the margiela usually is, it was just kind of unrefined a hipstery, i'm really hoping Martin Margiela is no longer designing for the label. Yohji Yamamoto was also incredibly disspainting. I just feel like he wanted to make money so he threw in some classic yohji stuff and some commercial stuff and added holes in it just to keep the deconstruction aspect. I'm mentioning Balmain only because this was truley hideous and not even worth showing at fashion week. The clothes lack substance entirely.
Rodarte
The Mulleavy girls present another collection filled with wonderful textures. They continue to refine their collaging technique and this time it returns more deconstructed than ever with plaids and florals thrown into the mix. I love that they have a signature that they use and they are choosing to really refine, this time is their best attempt. The way the have used deconstruction and married all different textiles together creature this amazing menagerie of textures that i would love to see in person. I really don't understand the negative criticism for these girls when people are fawning over Decarnin's shows.
Marc Jacobs
I have mixed feelings about this show, I'll start with it's positive qualities. I liked the color palette, especially after last seasons 80s thing. I think the pants look interesting and the proportions are okay. What i don't like is how Comme des Garcons it is. It's not even like it's Comme des Garcons for any good reasons, Marc just showed ruffles and paired them awkwardly. A CdG show goes beyond ruffles and awkwards proportions, Marc's influences are nowhere near similar and this totally lacks the whit that's always present in Rei's collections, and its just too pretty/feminine. Basically its okay and is too CdG for bad reasons.
London isn't really worth writing about. Luella was eons better than last season but it just lacked the cheek and over the top aspect that characterizes her work. In Milan, Jil Sander left me confused, it was a bit too rustic for me to like it but the frayed edges were nice
Gareth Pugh
Another mixed feelings show, once again i'll start off with what i liked. The pants where cool and i see them selling well and being integrated into peoples wardrobes with great ease. I also liked his venture into this more romantic side of the label and the the construction and materials of the garments are bettwer than ever. I also liked the headpieces, even if they were a bit too Mcqueen for Gareth's own good. Once more, the collection felt too Rick Owens with the cuts of some the coats and the ideas were just not there. While i have never considered Gareth the go to designer for intellectual fashion, he generally has some kind of concept behind his clothes that give them some extra punch (s/s 09), but this season it just wasn't there. Either he was trepidatious about going into this new direction or he just wanted to make retail friendly clothes. It also lacked that theatrical aspect that made people pay attention to Gareth to begin with. This really does make me fear that all the hype he had is soon going to die out and he is no longer going to be relevant. The menswear is not even worth writing about, it was basically womenswear.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens has been refining his aesthetic for season much like the Mulleavy sisters. This season, it takes on this slightly minimalist approach and it really feels completely fresh. Everyone has been taking a stab at the Rick Owens aesthetic and this time, he does something different with it that i was not expecting. This might be my favorite show this season, the play with volume is amazing and creates some amazing lines. I also love this lighter color palette that Rick has been exploring these past two seasons and the accessories are perfect for the show. Has anyone else noticed how Freja keeps getting the best looks at all the collections?
Comme des Garcons
This is my other candidate for favorite show of the season. When everyone goes shoulder pad crazy, Rei pokes fun at the fashion industry by showing us this wonderful collage collection. The construction of those jackets/tops looks incredible, something i must see in person. I really love how she just made jackets out of cut up shoulder pads. I also love the section of the show with all the nude dresses paired with the harnesses, i love the juxtaposition of the two elements and the construction of the dresses looks so interesting. I did indeed go through the Comme des Garcons effect with this collection, every time i see this collection i seem to love it more and more and this basically happens with every single one of her shows. I love it when Rei shows a sense of humor, it's good to know she's not taking herself to seriously, her brand is named "like some boys" after all. My only criticism is that this show wasn't quite the emotional experience last season was, but that might have been her best show since 2000 in that aspect so i'm not bothered by it.
I'll write about Victor and Rolf, Ann Demeulemeester, and Mqueen at the end of the week since i have AP euro awaiting me (that class is killing us)
